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Despite the mental picture we had of Big Bend and more broadly West Texas before arriving (that it would be flat and desolate), we were pleasantly surprised with both the beauty and genuine diversity of ecosystems in this park. We did some wonderful hikes and wanted to highlight those specifically in this post. As for logistics and itinerary, our other post on Big Bend dives into those details more fully.
These hikes are in order, but honestly the first three are ranked in order of our favorites and from there they are all equally enjoyable in their own right. You can’t go wrong with hikes 4, 5, or 6 and your availability of time and vehicle (especially 5 but also number 6 would be best to get to in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle) should determine which of them you will tackle.
Each of these hikes in Big Bend can be paired with others and none were full day adventures – the Lost Mine Trail took us a total time of about 3.5 hours including a snack-time at the top (BTW, Kim loves these protein bites for an allergy-friendly, hiking option).
Here’s our top family-friendly hike picks in Big Bend:
Hike 1: Lost Mine Trail (4.9 miles, 1,135 feet elevation gain)
The Lost Mine Trail was calling our name as a hike we really wanted to and we were prepped for its 4.9 miles (roundtrip) and 1,135 feet of elevation gain. What we weren’t prepared for was how different it was than what we had seen just the day before when we were at Boquillas Canyon and Ernst Tinaja trails! The mountains were beautiful and much of this hike is in tree cover or on rock at the top.
We didn’t see any, but it is common to see black bear on these trails and mountain lions live in this area so you may want to bring your bear spray (the park estimates there are 20-25 mountain lions and similar numbers of black bear that live in the area). All the normal rules apply – keep your eyes open, walk in a group, and be noisy enough that you won’t startle any animals. The hike has a series of switchbacks but does not take long to show you the scenery to keep you wanting more and by the time you arrive at the top you can only say it is worthwhile!
Our early morning hike was perfect as we got to see the beautiful colors of the early morning sun come across the mountains and do most of the hike while it was cooler. You should note that the parking area is small at the trailhead, there are no toilets whatsoever there and the nearest ones are at the Chisos Basin Visitor Center a few miles up the road or way back at Panther Junction Visitor Center.
Hike 2: Santa Elena Canyon (1.5 miles, ~80 feet elevation gain)
You really must do this trail! It has a moderate climb with switchbacks near the beginning, and may include crossing some muddy or wet areas if the Terlingua Creek is flowing. After that you have a beautiful canyon to walk into with 1500′ walls on either side of you! The canyon is so narrow that it threw off my GPS and it thought we had climbed the sheer walls, which is probably why the GPS mapping apps like AllTrails think it is 610 feet of elevation gain when it is nowhere near that much.
Because of the microclimate in the canyon we saw Ocatillo that had buds that weren’t developing anywhere else in the park and a cactus that was flowering. We played in the cold water here (shoes that can go in the water are really useful on this hike) and also saw some kayakers, which is fun! It is a beautiful hike that is one we will remember forever.
Hike 3: Boquillas Canyon (1.4 miles, 229 feet elevation gain)
The Boquillas Canyon Trail has an initial climb from the parking lot (which also has a pit toilet) but then runs gradually along and into the beautiful Boquillas Canyon. You will know when you hit the end of the trail and there is a nice spot to wade into the water, skip rocks, and relax along the shore! You really get the benefit of elevated vistas as well as descending right down to the river on this hike and you also get the feeling of the canyon closing in around you the further you hike into it.
Hike 4: Rio Grande Village Nature Trail (1 mile; 120 feet elevation gain if you climb to the overlook)
The Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which leaves across from campsite #18 in the Rio Grande Village Campground, is an easy but nice hike. There are parking spots right near the trailhead so check those first before you park elsewhere. We didn’t check and parked by the Amphitheater, which added about 10 minutes to the hike. This trail has some options after crossing the pond and you can climb to the top of a ridge or go down to the river.
We chose the river as we also wanted to conserve some energy for our other planned hikes. It is amazing to see how small and shallow the river was in March and just how simple crossing it would have been. We enjoyed the hike, especially the fish and other wildlife in the pond. We spotted a turtle who had buried their shell fully in the soil and lots of fish.
Hike 5: Ernst Tinaja Trail (1.9 miles, 131 feet elevation gain)
After the Boquillas Canyon we went to the Ernst Tinaja trailhead on the Old Ore Road and I need to warn you that it is a rough and tough dirt road that requires some real 4-wheel-drive vehicles to drive on. I often see that warning on National Park roads and find it overblown, but this road gave our rental car a permanent squeak and is one to be careful on. The 5 mile drive to the trailhead is an adventure in itself!
The trail at Ernst Tinaja itself is neat and geologically distinct as you travel through limestone walls that have been seriously disrupted by a fault that runs through this area. The ponds are not swimming holes — the flies and bees (as well as the funkiness of the water) made sure of that. The key feature is the tinaja, which are these depressions that hold water. This area is fun to explore and if you like to scramble you could have a blast here!
Hike 6: Grapevine Hills Trail / Balanced Rock (2.2 miles, 232 feet elevation gain)
Our final Big Bend destination was Balanced Rock on the Grapevine Hills Trail, which is located near the end of the Grapevine Hills Road. This unpaved road was about as rough as the Old Ore Road with some pretty awful washboard sections. It definitely gets a lot more traffic but does not have washes that require a true 4-wheel-drive and we saw some cars making their way. The parking area is decent sized and you can park along the road. There are no restrooms at the trailhead. Once you get underway you come into something again unique in the park – a very distinct geologic playground of boulders all around you!
Much of the trail is in the sandy wash and is pretty easy, but I can’t tell you how many older folks we saw who had to have struggled with the last 1/4 mile which is honest to goodness rock scrambling up the hill. Kids will love it and you do get a neat view through and from the top but the trail up that last bit has to be tough for those folks.
There you have it, our picks for the best family-friendly hikes in Big Bend! Which of these is your favorite or do you have a suggestion for one we should do next time? We want to try Cattail Falls if we go again when there may be water flowing there and heard good things about the Upper Burro Mesa Pouroff Trail. We also wanted to do the Hot Springs Canyon Trail but that area was closed when we were there. Want more info on Big Bend? Don’t forget to check out our 3-day Big Bend itinerary.
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